Friday, November 18, 2005
The other day I wrote a fairly tipsy little rhapsody to the Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba, which we had just drunk at home with a roast loin of pork. That post was in Italian, but I think it's important to translate the mini-review into English. (Without the drunken rhapsodic references to autumn hedgerows and the great Piedmontese writer and suicide, Cesare Pavese.) I will simply repeat that Cavallotto is a superb producer of Barolo and other Piedmontese varieties; they're all extremely worthwhile. The Dolcetto cost just $13.99 and was a delightfully nuanced wine for the price. It finished pretty long and left a wonderful mixture of flavors in my appreciative gob: liquorice, fallen leaves, and an earthiness reminiscent of truffles, (not so) oddly enough. The fruit I tasted was grape, not the usual orchard that tasters feel obligated to call upon to describe what's hit their palate. It also had a refreshing acidity that kept the autumn flavors from being oppressive, and it was a lovely match with the rosemary-scented pork loin. The Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba would be a wonderful house wine for the colder months of the year, complementing all kinds of savory dishes that keep the chill outside. If you can find it, buy a bottle. Chances are you'll want more. By the way, in case you're wondering, this is not part of a viral marketing campaign for Cavallotto. I just happen to be taken with their wines. They are not overdone, overoaked, overanything. Honest, clean, balanced. And the varietal character of the grapes they use comes through loud and clear.